J'adore Paris and other fabulous things

I am exhaustified. Which is weird. I think I'm becoming a little travel-weary. Not that its going to stop me from enjoying myself! It just means I crash a lot harder @ night.

It was a beautiful day in Paris. A little overcast, but not cold and not dreary. I slept in a bit since I didn't get the best night's sleep. I looked up a few boulangeries (bakeries) in the area to get some breakfast. I found Le Grenier a Pain near my hotel in Monmartre.  I really wanted to do a few things that I didn't get to do the last time that I was here, so I went to the Tuleries Gardens where Musee de l'Orangerie is located. The museum is home to paintings by Gougin, Cesanne, Renoir and Picasso. But it especially peaks my interest because it houses none other than Monet's Les Nymphéas aka The Water Lilies. 

In my opinion, they are the most beautiful paintings in existence. I'm not into art. Not entirely. But I do have a thing for the impressionists. It is all how they see things and I find such beauty in their point of view. But Monet's water lilies just stir something in me. We have a few small paintings of the lilies at the MOA in Boston. I've seen them a few times. But these paintings far outshine those. There are 2 rooms that span all four walls of each room. Each canvas is basically one part of Monet's gardens in Giverny. The 2 rooms show the water lilies at 2 different times of day. So the shadows are different and the lighting is different. It amazing. 

I think it the paintings are more significant somehow since I've been to Monet's house in Giverny. To think that I have walked among those very same blooms that he has painted is...remarkable. Those gardens are unbelievable. Even 5 years later, I still remember seeing each indivdual flower, each tree, all planted by Monet. When you walked into the garden, there was an instant sense of repose. It was tranquil. It is a powerful experience to know that you have walked in the same steps as someone so great. I wish I were a poet or an author that could twist words to explain how fantastic this whole experience has been. Sadly, I lack the ability to verbalize what I am thinking. I think you can see from some of the pictures what I mean. And that will have to do. 


After walking through the other galleries in the Museum, I walked through the Tuleries to have some lunch in an outdoor cafe. I had a little friend join me the whole time I ate. A little bird who was hoping to snag some bread. He was so unafraid. Smiling at me, trying to convince me that he needed to be fed. Adorable. Lunch was finished so I walked to the Metro to go to Opera Garnier. The Metro system in Paris is the train system. It is excellent. Rarely late. Very efficient and really easy to navigate. 

The Old Opera house - Palais Garnier - is the stuff of legend. It is where an incident of a chandelier falling and killing 1 person inspired Gaston Leroux to write "The Phantom of the Opera". I can see why. When I went inside, it was hard not to feel that creepy almost otherworldly feeling. The lights are dim. The halls are HUGE and the grand staircase and chandeliers look foreboding. You can almost see things when you turn a corner. 


That isn't to say it isn't magnificent. The halls and walls are filled with busts of famous composers. Each section different from the other. There are bursts of light from window lit windows and doors. And dim lighting from jeweled chandeliers 

hanging low overhead. There are velvet walled and carpeted rooms leading to private boxes and everywhere you look there is marble.


Sadly, the opera house is not really used for opera anymore. The new Opera Bastille houses most of the operas performed in Paris. I saw a production there a few years ago. It is very modern. Very different. There are many concerts and ballets performed there, though. I would have loved to have seen something there in its hey-day. What an experience that would have been! 


The Opera house has a large gift shop where you can buy posters, ballet shoes, little souvenirs, and best of all - operas on CD and DVD. Their collection is vast. There are so many operas from all over the world. Its is fantastic! I bought one that I loved to commemorate the occasion. It was pricey to gain entrance to the house, but I found it well worth it. I didn't get to spend any time there the last time I was in Paris as the house was closed to visitors so I was thrilled that I got to see it in all of its glory. 


Down the street from the opera house is Eglise Madeleine. It is a church that is constructed in the style of a Greek temple. It is also huge. The French don't do "small". lol. There are tons of concerts held there all of the time. I went in to say a prayer for my family and as I was about to get up a chorus of children began to sing. It was very moving. There's something about hearing religious music sung in an old church. It is uplifting. I remember when I sang in Notre Dame in a chorus when I was 16 and our voices filled the entire church. It was a high. We all came out of there rosy cheeked and bright eyed. Amazing. This was similar, but more emotional than uplifting. 


Across from Eglise Madeleine is the Rue Royale which is home to designer boutiques like Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana and Dior. There were high fashion high brows walking up and down the streets. There was even a fashion shoot going on nearby! Now, it is no secret that I have expensive taste. I will admit that I was getting that itch to go in and browse. But I didn't. Being a poor artist has made all of those things beyond my means. I have many designer things that I can revel in when I get home. I'm quite proud of myself, actually. Usually I can't resist. Luckiy Versace is located far on the other side of the city, otherwise I would have been screwed! HA HA HA! There were many couples walking by. Guys holding many bags for their women. I want a sugar daddy! Anyone want to volunteer? All I want is for someone to buy me pretty things! I think I deserve them, don't you? ;)


On that same street is Maxim's a well-known restaurant that has been around since the 1800s. Everytime I walk by I feel the need to watch "Gigi" with Maurice Chevalier and Leslie Caron. I love it! Then that movie always makes me want to watch "Can Can" with Shirley Mcclaine and Frank Sinatra. Especially since I am in Monmartre where much of Can Can and Gigi were filmed! They don't make movies like that anymore! The classics are truly the best.

To finish out my day, I went to L'Arc de Triomphe to see it lit up at night. The busy streets around it are rarely quiet. Which can add to its charm sometimes. The Champs-Elysee is the main road leading from the Arc and is also lit up at night. Everything sparkles in the evening. Its magical.

One thing I noticed is that music is everywhere, its nice, but can be annoying. Allow me to explain. Walking down the street or in the gardens and hearing "La Vie en Rose" or the like gives Paris it's ambiance. Well, adds to it really. But what I mean by "annoying" is when riding the train, people begging for money play various instruments as loudly as they can and pester your for a euro or two. While most are actually very talented, when you are exhausted and want to just get home, having someone playing a trumpet in your ear is the last thing you want to hear. However, there are moments where I appreciate it. There are sometimes large ensembles with string instruments and brass almost a full orchestra that play in the train stations. They are mostly unknowns who are trying to get their name out there, handing out cds and such. I appreciate that. They are just trying to catch a break, not badger you for money and complain when you don't give them any. Anyway, in a city where the arts are so appreciated, it is difficult to judge or turn away when you have no money to give.