J'adore Paris and other fabulous things

I am exhaustified. Which is weird. I think I'm becoming a little travel-weary. Not that its going to stop me from enjoying myself! It just means I crash a lot harder @ night.

It was a beautiful day in Paris. A little overcast, but not cold and not dreary. I slept in a bit since I didn't get the best night's sleep. I looked up a few boulangeries (bakeries) in the area to get some breakfast. I found Le Grenier a Pain near my hotel in Monmartre.  I really wanted to do a few things that I didn't get to do the last time that I was here, so I went to the Tuleries Gardens where Musee de l'Orangerie is located. The museum is home to paintings by Gougin, Cesanne, Renoir and Picasso. But it especially peaks my interest because it houses none other than Monet's Les Nymphéas aka The Water Lilies. 

In my opinion, they are the most beautiful paintings in existence. I'm not into art. Not entirely. But I do have a thing for the impressionists. It is all how they see things and I find such beauty in their point of view. But Monet's water lilies just stir something in me. We have a few small paintings of the lilies at the MOA in Boston. I've seen them a few times. But these paintings far outshine those. There are 2 rooms that span all four walls of each room. Each canvas is basically one part of Monet's gardens in Giverny. The 2 rooms show the water lilies at 2 different times of day. So the shadows are different and the lighting is different. It amazing. 

I think it the paintings are more significant somehow since I've been to Monet's house in Giverny. To think that I have walked among those very same blooms that he has painted is...remarkable. Those gardens are unbelievable. Even 5 years later, I still remember seeing each indivdual flower, each tree, all planted by Monet. When you walked into the garden, there was an instant sense of repose. It was tranquil. It is a powerful experience to know that you have walked in the same steps as someone so great. I wish I were a poet or an author that could twist words to explain how fantastic this whole experience has been. Sadly, I lack the ability to verbalize what I am thinking. I think you can see from some of the pictures what I mean. And that will have to do. 


After walking through the other galleries in the Museum, I walked through the Tuleries to have some lunch in an outdoor cafe. I had a little friend join me the whole time I ate. A little bird who was hoping to snag some bread. He was so unafraid. Smiling at me, trying to convince me that he needed to be fed. Adorable. Lunch was finished so I walked to the Metro to go to Opera Garnier. The Metro system in Paris is the train system. It is excellent. Rarely late. Very efficient and really easy to navigate. 

The Old Opera house - Palais Garnier - is the stuff of legend. It is where an incident of a chandelier falling and killing 1 person inspired Gaston Leroux to write "The Phantom of the Opera". I can see why. When I went inside, it was hard not to feel that creepy almost otherworldly feeling. The lights are dim. The halls are HUGE and the grand staircase and chandeliers look foreboding. You can almost see things when you turn a corner. 


That isn't to say it isn't magnificent. The halls and walls are filled with busts of famous composers. Each section different from the other. There are bursts of light from window lit windows and doors. And dim lighting from jeweled chandeliers 

hanging low overhead. There are velvet walled and carpeted rooms leading to private boxes and everywhere you look there is marble.


Sadly, the opera house is not really used for opera anymore. The new Opera Bastille houses most of the operas performed in Paris. I saw a production there a few years ago. It is very modern. Very different. There are many concerts and ballets performed there, though. I would have loved to have seen something there in its hey-day. What an experience that would have been! 


The Opera house has a large gift shop where you can buy posters, ballet shoes, little souvenirs, and best of all - operas on CD and DVD. Their collection is vast. There are so many operas from all over the world. Its is fantastic! I bought one that I loved to commemorate the occasion. It was pricey to gain entrance to the house, but I found it well worth it. I didn't get to spend any time there the last time I was in Paris as the house was closed to visitors so I was thrilled that I got to see it in all of its glory. 


Down the street from the opera house is Eglise Madeleine. It is a church that is constructed in the style of a Greek temple. It is also huge. The French don't do "small". lol. There are tons of concerts held there all of the time. I went in to say a prayer for my family and as I was about to get up a chorus of children began to sing. It was very moving. There's something about hearing religious music sung in an old church. It is uplifting. I remember when I sang in Notre Dame in a chorus when I was 16 and our voices filled the entire church. It was a high. We all came out of there rosy cheeked and bright eyed. Amazing. This was similar, but more emotional than uplifting. 


Across from Eglise Madeleine is the Rue Royale which is home to designer boutiques like Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana and Dior. There were high fashion high brows walking up and down the streets. There was even a fashion shoot going on nearby! Now, it is no secret that I have expensive taste. I will admit that I was getting that itch to go in and browse. But I didn't. Being a poor artist has made all of those things beyond my means. I have many designer things that I can revel in when I get home. I'm quite proud of myself, actually. Usually I can't resist. Luckiy Versace is located far on the other side of the city, otherwise I would have been screwed! HA HA HA! There were many couples walking by. Guys holding many bags for their women. I want a sugar daddy! Anyone want to volunteer? All I want is for someone to buy me pretty things! I think I deserve them, don't you? ;)


On that same street is Maxim's a well-known restaurant that has been around since the 1800s. Everytime I walk by I feel the need to watch "Gigi" with Maurice Chevalier and Leslie Caron. I love it! Then that movie always makes me want to watch "Can Can" with Shirley Mcclaine and Frank Sinatra. Especially since I am in Monmartre where much of Can Can and Gigi were filmed! They don't make movies like that anymore! The classics are truly the best.

To finish out my day, I went to L'Arc de Triomphe to see it lit up at night. The busy streets around it are rarely quiet. Which can add to its charm sometimes. The Champs-Elysee is the main road leading from the Arc and is also lit up at night. Everything sparkles in the evening. Its magical.

One thing I noticed is that music is everywhere, its nice, but can be annoying. Allow me to explain. Walking down the street or in the gardens and hearing "La Vie en Rose" or the like gives Paris it's ambiance. Well, adds to it really. But what I mean by "annoying" is when riding the train, people begging for money play various instruments as loudly as they can and pester your for a euro or two. While most are actually very talented, when you are exhausted and want to just get home, having someone playing a trumpet in your ear is the last thing you want to hear. However, there are moments where I appreciate it. There are sometimes large ensembles with string instruments and brass almost a full orchestra that play in the train stations. They are mostly unknowns who are trying to get their name out there, handing out cds and such. I appreciate that. They are just trying to catch a break, not badger you for money and complain when you don't give them any. Anyway, in a city where the arts are so appreciated, it is difficult to judge or turn away when you have no money to give.

I love Paris in the springtime, I love Paris in the fall...

I love Paris in the summer, when it sizzles. I love Paris in the winter, when it drizzles.

Sorry, got carried away. In case you didn't figure it out by now, I am in PARIS!!! No, not Paris, Texas. The one and only Paris, France. And oh does it feel wonderful to be back. Its like an old friend. Always welcoming, always friendly, always happy. Always the same and yet different everytime I come to visit.  I make no qualms about how much I love it here. It has always been, and will always be one of my favorite places in the world.

Yesterday, I had to say goodbye to the mountains. I didn't want to leave. But I had definitely had my fill of the mountains. So that wonderful mountain-girl feeling should last me a while. (I have no idea what that means either, just go with it.) I got on the train to Frankfurt (5 hour ride) and I realized about 1/2 way there that I forgot my macbook charger in the hotel room. Everyone say it with me now "FUUUUUUUUUUCKKKKK!". Yup, it was bad. How e'er, due to some macbook drama during my 1st few days in Germany, I remembered that there is an Apple Store in Frankfurt. WOO HOO! Not woo hoo, we weren't pulling into Frankfurt until 8ish on saturday night and Sundays EVERYTHING is closed. So I called up one of my roomies in Weimar and had her check out the times for me. Luckily, they closed @ 9. Ok, don't panic. I didn't. So, I got off the train, stored my luggage in the lockers (GOD BLESS THOSE LOCKERS! We need those in the US) and ran the .8 miles of streets to get there. Thankfully, I got there and they were SO NICE!!!! OMG!  God Bless you Apple! Talk about fantastic service all over the world. I will never ever ever buy a PC again.

Anyway, this morning I woke up from my hotel in Frankfurt for the night. I couldn't work out a schedule where I could take the train directly to the airport and fly out. The schedule just didn't work. So, overnight in Frankfurt.  Woke up, ate breakfast and off to the airport!

Paris is only an hour away. 50 mins by plane, actually! And dirt cheap if you book early enough! I got to the airport, got a visitor's pass and hopped on the train to the city. Took about an hour. It was overcrowded. Sundays tend to be like that. But I got to Pigalle and realized where I was. In Monmartre. Which is where the "real" Paris is. All the red light district areas and tiny hotels and crazy people. However, at the same time, its sort of Posh. Its very safe at night now. My hotel is literally 2 blocks down from Moulin Rouge. :)  Its very artsy. Monmartre is known for its inspiring corners and alleys. Picasso loved it here.

My hotel is tiny, and kind of gross and exactly what you expect the "real" Paris to be like. No frills. And I love it. I don't know why, but I do. I mean, its TINY. I'm not exaggerating. Its fantastic. The front desk has 2 "house" cats that sit at the desk the whole day. Just lazing about. I love fluffy kitties! I already want to take one home with me! Its more of a hotel actually. Which is fine. The bathroom is miniscule and there is like 1 tiny shower for 20 people. That will be interesting. But again, I don't care! I love it!

So to re-acclimate myself with the city, and since it was getting kind of dark out, I went to the first place that I could think of that would look nice at night.  La Tour Eiffel. God, its magnificent. It just is. There were TONS of tourists. Which I found interesting. I was here a few years ago during the fall and there weren't 1/2 as many people as there were today. Maybe cuz it is a weekend? I'm not sure. But I slogged my way through the tourists, found a creperie and sat down on the ground in the park. This was interesting because I've never seen the grass in the park open for the public to meander on before. I loved it. People sitting, sharing wine, admiring the view. Seeing people's faces when they see the tower is entertaining. I can appreciate the awe. It is incredible.

Love is everywhere here. Its everywhere you look. In every person, in every sight to see. Its called the city of love for a reason. It is infectious and delicious. And kind of bittersweet.

Paris is special. And I don't mean special ed. There is just something about it. It is difficult to describe. Its unlike anywhere else in the world. I guess you can say that about most places, but everytime I come here I get a warm homey feeling that makes it different. A sense of belonging. I don't really know why people hate the French people. In my travels, I have found the Germans to be fare more gruff and the Italians to be far more rude. The French can actually be quite warm, if you don't act like a moron, that is. I mean, we all hate it when tourists don't speak our language. I know I do! Anyway, this city is incredible. There is beauty everywhere you look. The history of this place is intriguing. We don't have this sort of history in America. That is true for all of Europe, really.

I love it here. I really do. I was a little apprehensive about coming here due to financial things and things at home in the US. But I know now that it was absolutely the right thing to do. I needed it. Its good for the soul. I can't wait to re-discover Paris. :)